Why Indonesia's Bandung is a hotbed for culinary oddities and invention
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Why Indonesia's Bandung is a hotbed for culinary oddities and invention
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A plate of jando satay, fabricated from cow udder. (Photo: Nivell Rayda)
BANDUNG, West Java: From beefiness udder satays to volleyball-size meatballs, the city of Bandung has always been known for its buzzing culinary scene, feeding hungry locals and tourists.
It is a rubber bet that someone, somewhere in this city of 2.4 million inhabitants is concocting a dish, snack or drink no one has e'er seen. Over the years, Bandung has gained a reputation for one-of-a-kind and bizarre dishes.
"What makes the Bandung culinary scene unique is its inventiveness. And it'south been that way for a long fourth dimension," food blogger, Sepsa Zulkaida Subhi told CNA.
Citing an example, Mr Subhi said batagor, or deep fried meat tofu was showtime sold in Bandung in 1970s. Information technology is now popular in many parts of the country.
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The dish was born when a street hawker named Mr Ikhsan, who similar many Indonesians become with 1 name, could not sell his tofu and decided to stuff meat in them.
To cook the meat, he deep-fried the blimp tofu. He then decided to complement the snack with peanut sauce.
The dish has since spread to other parts of Republic of indonesia and came to define Bandung's spirit of culinary invention.
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"No other (Indonesian) city has such creative and innovative spirit. Non fifty-fifty Jakarta. No other metropolis has and so many people trying to create something new," the 39-year-old blogger said.
SPIRIT OF EXPERIMENTATION
Just like batagor, many of Bandung's famous dishes and snacks came from finding a new twist to archetype delicacies.
The humble surabi is an Indonesian pancake made with rice flour and kokosnoot milk.
READ: No bandung in Bandung just at that place's great coffee and street food
Elsewhere in Indonesia, Surabi is traditionally eaten with caramelised palm sugar or sweetened coconut milk sauce and served equally as a sweet treat.
Just in the easily of vendors in Bandung, they became savoury snacks after someone had the idea in the 1980s of topping them off with oncom, spicy fermented soybeans native to the people of West Java.
Today, some restaurants serve their surabis with oreos, nutella and chocolate chips while for the savoury version, some have gone equally far every bit to experiment with surabi carbonara and smoked beef surabi.
Restaurant owner, Mr Muhammad Rifky said the people of Bandung are always looking for the next culinary invention or rare effeminateness, putting pressure on businesses similar his Dapur Suami Isteri (Husband and Married woman's Kitchen) to remember out of the box.
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When the old television commercial director started his business in 2018, he sought advice from his friends and customers on how to put his small buffet on the map.
"They all said that I should either create something unique and new. If I want to go traditional, I should notice dishes which are getting harder and harder to find," Mr Rifky told CNA.
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Eventually, the buffet grew from exclusively selling authentic Indonesian cuisine, to coming up with i-of-a-kind dishes such as its signature beef rendang sandwich, served with over piece of cake egg and poached papaya leaves.
A more recent invention is the katsu coffee, fabricated out of espresso mixed with kaya jam and tiramisu syrup (hence the acronym "katsu"). The concoction is stirred until the kaya jam is completely dissolved before ice and common cold milk are added.
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The drink was created just ane calendar week before CNA's visit to the cafe, located in an upscale residential expanse in the western part of Bandung.
"We used to offer kaya toast. Simply it didn't sell very well and we were left with jars of kaya jam. And then we experimented with ways to use it," Mr Rifky said.
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CULINARY ODDITIES
Bandung'southward dear for annihilation unique and foreign besides ways that dishes that became out of favour in their native places could find a new lease of life in West Coffee.
The jando satay, made out of cow'due south udder is i such case. The dish hailed from Klaten, Central Coffee and was on the verge of becoming extinct.
"My begetter brought information technology to Bandung in 1975 and we have been selling it since," Mr Agung Suganda told CNA at his street side stall behind the governor's office.
Mr Suganda said the dish was not an firsthand success but over time, through word of oral cavity, people began to look for it, drawn by its soft, juicy texture and savoury taste.
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"No one sells jando satay in Klaten anymore. Merely here in Bandung, people love it so much, they would queue for more than an hour. Sometimes people from out of town travel all the way hither just to gustation information technology. Because you lot tin can't find it anywhere else any more," the man said, adding that he can sell up to 14,000 sticks of satay per day.
While some like Mr Suganda accept insisted on keeping the traditional recipe, others like Mr Laman who hails from Solo, Central Java, have injected new elements into his Solo-style meatball soup.
The 71-year-sometime has been selling meatballs since 1985 and contest from like businesses made him think large, quite literally.
Virtually twenty years agone, he began selling meatballs the size of an developed man's fist.
That was enough to attract a loyal following among local foodies, but he did non finish in that location. In 2012, he created an even larger meatball the size of a volley ball. And this put his stall on the map.
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Weighing in at ii.5kg and filled with chunks of minced meat at the centre, the giant meatball can easily feed a family of five.
"Everyday, we make 25 giant meatballs. Everyday, people would society it, not considering it's weird, just because they similar the taste," said Mr Laman, who goes with one proper noun.
"We've had many foreigners here. People come up here from all over Indonesia as well as from overseas. Surprisingly, those who order it and are able to finish information technology are not that big (physically) at all."
The humble food stall even created a challenge for the customers - for one person to cease one giant meatball in nether an hour. Those who succeed will go their meal for costless, and fifty-fifty get to take home another giant meatball.
So far, only six people take successfully completed the challenge, he said.
TOURISTS DRIVE INNOVATION
But what is it nearly Bandung which makes it a oasis for culinary creativity and invention?
In that location is no culinary school in Bandung and the inventor of these dishes are not veterans of professional person kitchens. This ways the dishes were born out of nix more curiosity and trial-and-errors.
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Mr Subhi, the nutrient blogger, attributes this culture of creativity to Bandung's popularity as a tourist destination.
"Bandung has always been a resort city. Tourists have been coming here for decades. Yous take to stand out to attract them," he said of the mountainous urban center.
Mr Subhi also thinks that the urban center's thriving fashion manufacture attracts many artisans and designers. "That's why Bandung is total of creative people and that is reflected in its art, fashion, music and fifty-fifty its culinary scene," he said.
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However, not all delicacies are destined to survive, with some proving to be more of a fad.
"At ane time at that place was a singkong keju (cheese covered cassava) craze sweeping across Bandung. Everyone was selling singkong keju and there was a long line of people queuing to go a gustatory modality of information technology. But it has at present disappeared," Mr Subhi recounted.
"Non every dish stood the examination of time. Singkong keju is easily replicated. No 1 was taking it to the next level and people got tired of information technology."
For Mr Rifky, the eatery owner, a dish's longevity boils down to quality and gustation.
"At that place take been many examples of a dish becoming an overnight sensation only to disappear not long afterwards. You can create the almost ridiculous dish known to men, get a few celebrities to endorse it or promote it like crazy. If it doesn't sense of taste skillful, people won't come back," he said.
"You need to take passion to survive in the food business organization, especially in a artistic mural like Bandung. Passion is what drives me to ask how can I improve my dish ... (and what) I can come up upward with next."
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/asia/indonesia-bandung-food-meatball-satay-creativity-232171
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